Stingray Chassis Instruction Guide

Stingray Chassis Assembly Instructions — Step by Step

Complete written assembly instructions for the Mofo RC Stingray Class 3 competition chassis kit for the Axial® SCX24™. The interactive 3D guide above highlights every part and screw location per step; hole numbers (H1–H53) match the Hardware Locator in the viewer.

Step 1: Left Chassis Rails

Parts: Left Main Chassis, Left Upper Chassis Rail

Hardware: 2× M1.4 × 5mm screw, 2× M1.4 nut

Holes: H35, H36

• Place upper rail on the OUTSIDE of the lower rail
• Run 2× M1.4 × 5mm screws through upper rail, then through lower rail at H35 and H36
• Secure with M1.4 nuts on the INSIDE of the rail
• Do not overtighten — you may need to slide the rail up or down slightly later to line up with the front mount

Step 2: Right Chassis Rails

Parts: Right Main Chassis, Right Upper Chassis Rail

Hardware: 2× M1.4 × 5mm screw, 2× M1.4 nut

Holes: H35, H36

Mirror of Step 1 — same process, right side.

• Place upper rail on the OUTSIDE of the lower rail
• Run 2× M1.4 × 5mm screws through upper rail, then through lower rail at H35 and H36
• Secure with M1.4 nuts on the INSIDE of the rail
• Do not overtighten — you may need to slide the rail up or down slightly later to line up with the front mount

Step 3: Front Upper Links — Ball Installation & Link Mounting

Parts: Left Front Upper Link, Right Front Upper Link

Hardware: 2× threaded upper link ball, 2× regular M1.4 link ball (non-threaded), 4× M1.4 × 8mm screw, 8× O-ring

Holes: H20 (both rails)

Pre-assembly (both links)

• Press THREADED ball into chassis end of link
• Press NON-THREADED ball into axle end of link
• Balls must oppose each other — large flat face of ball faces AWAY from chassis on the chassis side, and AWAY from axle on the axle side to retain link in event of o-ring failure

Install on chassis

• Threaded ball end mounts at H20 on each rail (left and right)
• M1.4 × 8mm screw through rail into threaded ball

📝 Threadlock optional — skip if you plan to adjust link position later

Step 4: Rear Upper Links — Ball Installation & Mount

Parts: Left Rear Upper Link, Right Rear Upper Link

Hardware: 2× threaded upper link ball, 2× regular M1.4 link ball (non-threaded), 4× M1.4 × 8mm screw, 8× O-ring

Holes: H27 (both rails)

Pre-assembly (both links)

• Press THREADED ball into the link on the short aggressive bend side and install o-rings on both sides (this end follows the chassis curve)
• Press NON-THREADED ball into the re-curve end going to rear axle and install o-rings on both sides (this end connects to rear axle / rear servo mount 4WS)
• Balls must oppose each other — large flat face of ball faces AWAY from chassis on the chassis side, and AWAY from axle on the axle side to retain link in event of o-ring failure

Install on chassis

• Short bend end (threaded ball) mounts at H27 on each rail (left and right)
• M1.4 × 8mm screw through rail into threaded ball

📝 Threadlock optional — skip if you plan to adjust link position later

Step 5: Shock Installation

Parts: Front shocks (×2), Rear shocks (×2) — not modeled

Hardware: 2× shock absorber (front), 2× shock absorber (rear), 4× M1.4 × 10mm or M1.4 × 12mm screw, 4× M1.4 nut

Holes: H10 (front, recommended), H47 (rear, recommended)

Installation

• Choose front shock position on rail (recommended: H10 for 39–40mm shocks)
• Choose rear shock position on rail (recommended: H47 for 39–40mm shocks)
• Longer shocks: move position toward center of chassis to keep COG lower
• Retain each shock with M1.4 × 10mm or M1.4 × 12mm screw through rail, M1.4 nut on the INSIDE of the chassis rail

⚠️ Do NOT use H50 (rear) yet — if you plan to use H50: leave the rear shock off for now, install the rear chassis brace first (Step 8), then screw the shock into the plastic while mounting the brace. The orange arrow in the 3D viewer marks H50.

⚠️ Screw length check at H10/H11: After installing shock, hold the Front Chassis Brace against the chassis at its mounting points and check if extra screw length will interfere. If it does: with nut already installed, use metal diagonal cutters or a Dremel to shorten the screw flush.

⚠️ If skipping this step, you may need to partially disassemble later for easier access to shock nuts. Recommended to install now.

Step 6A: Lower Links & Front Skid Weight Hangers

Parts: Front Lower Links (left + right), Front Link Skid Weight Hangers (left + right), Rear Lower Links (left + right)

Hardware: 8× regular link ball, 16× O-ring, 8× M1.4 × 6mm screw, Weight slugs (qty per preference), School glue (optional, removable) or super glue (permanent)

Part 1: Link Ball Installation (all lower links)

• Press one link ball into each end of all lower links
• Install o-rings on both sides of each ball
• Direction is not critical — all balls are fully captured

Part 2: Front Link Skid Weight Hanger Assembly

Separate the 2 hanger pieces by cutting the tree mounts with a razor knife, nail clippers, or side cutters.

• Viewed from top when mounted: 3 cutouts must be VISIBLE and face UP
• Cutouts face toward the INSIDE of the chassis
• Flat part of skid faces DOWN (bottom)
• Mount to the INSIDE face of the front lower link
• Align hanger to link so all 4 screw holes and both weight slug openings line up
• Install 4× M1.4 × 6mm screws
• Back off all 4 screws 1–2 turns, press weight slugs through the link opening into the plastic hanger approximately 50%, snug the 4 screws, press slugs the rest of the way until flush with the link face

⚠️ Holes are very tight — you may need to force-start the screws, or open the hole slightly with a 1.1mm drill bit first.

⚠️ If slugs fit too loosely: use school glue for removable hold, or super glue for permanent. If slugs fit too tightly: light pass with a small round file or sandpaper, or use a drop of oil/grease, a soft punch, and a wood backing to gently tap them in.

Step 6B: Skid Plate & Lower Link Assembly

Parts: Main Skid Plate, Lower Links (from Step 6A)

Hardware: 4× M1.4 × 12mm screw

To identify skid plate orientation: hold it with the large opening facing UP. Look at the 3 small holes on each side — the single hole closest to the TOP edge = REAR-MOST mounting hole, this tells you which end is the rear.

• The arrows in the 3D viewer mark the 4 LARGE side openings where the M1.4 × 12mm screws enter and pass through the links
• Rear lower links (long curved links): larger curve = rear/axle end, shorter curve = front/skid plate end. Push shorter curve end into rear holes of skid plate with large opening facing UP. Slide M1.4 × 12mm screw through the large side opening and thread through: skid plate → link → back into skid plate — snug until firm.
• Front lower links: weight slug openings = FRONT (axle end), opposite end attaches to skid plate. Push into front holes of skid plate and install M1.4 × 12mm screws same method as rear.

⚠️ Do NOT overtighten the M1.4 × 12mm screws on any link.

Step 7A: Carrier Bearing Assembly

Parts: Carrier Bearing

Hardware: 2× bearing (8mm × 3mm, 4mm shaft hole), 1× carrier shaft (short 17mm, or long version), Optional: 2× M1.4 × 4mm screw (long shaft only, 1 per side)

Part 1: Bearing Installation

• If bearings are not pre-installed, press 2× bearings into the carrier bearing holder — the arrows mark the large bearing openings on each side
• A drop of super glue is optional — not required

⚠️ There are 2 holes on each face of the bearing holder. These are NOT used when using the short 17mm carrier shaft. If using a LONG shaft: install 1× M1.4 × 4mm screw per side on opposite sides to retain the bearing and shaft.

Part 2: Carrier Shaft

• Slide the carrier shaft in now, or wait until driveshaft installation — either is fine
• Once driveshafts are installed they will retain the carrier shaft and prevent it from falling out

Step 7B: Attach Carrier Bearing to Rear Chassis Brace

Parts: Rear Chassis Brace, Carrier Bearing (from Step 7A)

Hardware: 4× M1.4 × 8mm screw

• Line up the carrier bearing to the BOTTOM of the rear chassis brace so that all 8 holes on the two pieces align
• Install 4× M1.4 × 8mm screws through the TOP of the rear brace and into the carrier — use the 4 OUTSIDE CORNER holes (marked with arrows in the 3D viewer)
• The extra holes allow you to adjust the carrier position forward or rearward later for tuning

Step 8: Install Rear Chassis Brace to Chassis

Parts: Rear Chassis Brace + Carrier Bearing assembly (from Step 7B)

Hardware: 3× M1.4 × 5mm screw

Holes: H1, H39, H50

📝 H50 doubles as an optional rear shock mount position — see Step 5 if you skipped the rear shock earlier.

⚠️ If you plan to use H50 for a rear shock mount: do NOT install the H50 screw yet. Hold the rear shock in position and screw through the brace and shock mount together into the plastic while installing.

Step 9A: Front Chassis Brace — Magnet Installation

Parts: Front Chassis Brace

Hardware: 2× 8mm × 2mm magnet, Super glue or equivalent, Open jaw pliers, Low lint towel

• Put a drop of super glue into the round inset hole on the TOP of the front chassis brace — use the tip to coat the hole evenly
• Press one magnet in with force. If it won't seat fully: use pliers to gently squeeze it in
• Wipe away any excess glue immediately
• Repeat for the second hole on the front brace
• Once glue is fully dry: use a razor blade or knife to scrape any dried glue off the exposed face of each magnet

⚠️ Make sure magnets are clean and free of any grease or finger oils before gluing. Use a high quality glue for best results.

📝 The arrows in the 3D viewer mark the two round inset holes on top of the brace.

Step 9B: Roof — Magnet Installation

Parts: Hinging Roof

Hardware: 2× 8mm × 2mm magnet, Super glue or equivalent, Low lint towel

• Set one of the 2 remaining magnets on top of the LEFT installed brace magnet — it will stick by its own magnetic force
• Confirm polarity is correct before proceeding
• Put a drop of super glue into the LEFT roof hole. Quickly press the magnet in (hole should be large enough to squeeze in by hand — no pliers needed)
• Wipe away excess glue immediately
• Repeat for the RIGHT roof magnet using the same polarity method
• Allow glue to dry for at least 10 minutes
• Verify: both magnet pairs should hold the roof closed with magnetic force on both sides

⚠️ POLARITY IS CRITICAL — you may only get one chance per magnet. If glued in with wrong polarity the roof will push OPEN instead of holding closed.

⚠️ Make sure magnets are clean and free of any grease or finger oils before gluing. Use a high quality glue for best results.

📝 The arrows in the 3D viewer mark the two circular magnet depressions on the underside of the roof — they line up with the brace magnets below.

Step 9C: Install Front Chassis Brace to Chassis

Parts: Front Chassis Brace (with magnets from Step 9A)

Hardware: 2× M1.4 × 6mm screw

Holes: H3, H16

• Position the front chassis brace on the chassis
• Install screws at H3 and H16 only — first to the left chassis, then to the right chassis

⚠️ Do NOT install H17 yet — that hole is the slider board mount, installed in Step 10.

Step 10: Install Skid Plate & Slider Boards

Parts: Skid Plate assembly (from Step 6), Left Side Board, Right Side Board

Hardware: 2× M1.4 × 6mm screw (H17, one per side), 6× M1.4 × 8mm screw (H24, H25, H26, one per side)

Holes: H17, H24, H25, H26

Installation

• Slide the skid plate assembly (with lower links) up into position beneath the chassis
• Position left and right slider boards on the outside of the chassis rails
• At H17 (both rails): run M1.4 × 6mm screw through slider board, through chassis rail, into front chassis brace — this also completes the front brace installation from Step 9C
• At H24, H25, H26 (both rails): run M1.4 × 8mm screws through slider board, through chassis rail, and into skid plate

📝 Screw through slider board first, then through rail into the inner parts.

Step 11: Install Hinging Roof Lid

Parts: Hinging Roof (magnets installed in Step 9B)

Hardware: 2× M2 screw (5mm or 6mm)

Holes: H2 (both rails)

Installation

• Set the roof in between the upper chassis rails
• Align the magnet mounts so the roof snaps into position and holds by magnetic force
• Line up the roof holes with H2 on both rails
• Install 2× M2 screws until snug
• Back off each screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn — the roof should hinge open with a little force and remain closed on its own

📝 Do not overtighten — the roof must be able to hinge freely. The slight looseness is intentional.

📝 If the lid feels like it is catching, use sandpaper to lightly sand the sides of the roof lid where it is catching until it opens and closes smoothly.

Step 12A: Install Drivetrain

Parts: Motor + Motor Mount, Transmission, Front Axle Housing, Rear Axle Housing, Front Servo Mount Tray, Rear Servo Mount Tray (4WS), Axles, Driveshafts

Hardware: Motor (MOFO RC Pancake brushless recommended), Motor mount (MOFO RC 12mm Brushless Forward Facing), Drivetrain and driveshaft hardware

Compatibility

• Motor: MOFO RC Pancake line of brushless motors (recommended)
• Mount: MOFO RC 12mm Brushless Forward Facing Motor Mount
• Axles: MOFO X15 axles (recommended) — SCX24-based stock or aftermarket axles should also work

⚠️ Other mounts or motors may not fit.

Driveshaft Sizes

• Rear: C10 rear length (52–72mm)
• Mid: Deadbolt front length (32.5–40mm)
• Front: C10 front length (40–52mm)

Wire Routing — Front Servo

Do this BEFORE getting too far along with axle installation.

• Locate the hole on the RIGHT side of the front chassis brace beneath the magnet — marked with an arrow in the 3D viewer
• Route the front servo wire through this hole

Wire Routing — Rear Servo (4WS)

• Up from below, between the unicorn mount hole crossbrace and the low hanging bar in front of the rear fenders
• Back down below the rear brace
• Up and over — above the rear upper link on the right side
• All the way to the chassis side opening under the rear brace tray upper link relief hole, above the link

Step 12B: Rubber Band Limiting Straps

Parts: Front Chassis Brace, Rear Chassis Brace, Rubber Band Limiting Straps

Hardware: 4× rubber band limiting strap

• Install after lower links are mounted to axles
• Install the band around the upper link before installing the screw to the upper axle mount
• After installing the screw, pull the band to the upper link ball on the inside end of the link and pull taut
• Give the band a 1/2 twist
• Using a small driver or finger, pull the band up and under the front or rear brace
• Hook the other end onto the small FANGS located on the underside of the front and rear braces on each side — marked with arrows in the 3D viewer

📝 Other routing methods work — this is the recommended approach for rubber band straps.

Step 13: Install Electronics

Parts: ESC, Receiver, Battery — not modeled

Hardware: ESC (MOFO RC Reaper ESC recommended), Micro receiver, Battery

Recommended Electronics

• ESC: MOFO RC Reaper ESC (recommended) or other high quality brushless ESC
• Receiver: Micro receiver recommended for best fit

Mounting Options

• Option A — Under the lid (cleanest fit): Mount ESC and receiver under the roof lid alongside the motor and transmission. Use side boards to mount the battery.
• Option B — Side board mount: Mount electronics on the opposite side board as needed.
• Option C — Battery on Axle (BOA): Use BOA mounts to attach the battery directly to the front axle.

Wiring Note

The overall setup will look better and fit more cleanly if you commit to cutting, shortening, and soldering wires directly where applicable.

⚠️ Doing so may void warranties on your electronics. Proceed at your own discretion.

Step 14: Final Assembly & Community

Parts: Wheels, Tires, Bottom Feeders (optional), Any remaining optional parts

MOFO RC Resources

Check out our YouTube channel (MOFO RC) for video guides on:

• Bottom Feeder Weight Hanger installation (MOFO X15 Axles + Bottom Feeder hangers)
• How to cut and install tires onto MOFO RC Ridgebeast 1.8 wheels
• Rear diff Slider setup — gear mesh and anti-slop adjustment for the axles

Finishing Up

• Install wheels, tires, and any remaining optional parts
• Double check all screws are snug and Loctite where necessary — Red threadlocker is recommended for vital failure points on a comp rig (lost knuckle screw, loose link, backed-off shock, loose wheel nut can mean the difference between a podium finish and a bad day). Use your own discretion.
• Verify roof opens and closes smoothly
• Confirm all links move freely through full suspension travel

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